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Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club

Pasta with Silky Eggplant Sauce

When food writer Francis Lam’s recipe appeared in Gourmet magazine more than a decade ago, it was called “Let-My-Eggplant-Go-Free! Spaghetti,” a rather curious moniker. And one that doesn’t hint at how satisfying this rather homely dish—Italian peasant food at its best—really is. Whatever you call it, add it to your repertoire.

Ingredients

  • Coarse salt (kosher or sea)
  • 1 pound eggplant, cut into 1/2-inch slices
  • 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more to finish
  • 3 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed
  • Leaves from 2 sprigs thyme or oregano, chopped
  • 1 cup vegetable stock or water
  • 1 pound uncooked long pasta, such as spaghetti or linguine
  • 2 tablespoons minced oil-cured sun-dried tomatoes
  • 6 basil leaves, slivered
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (optional)

Directions

Step 1

Lightly salt the slices of eggplant, stack them back together, and let them hang out for 20 minutes in a strainer. Meanwhile, pour the olive oil into a wide, heavy saucepan over low heat and add the garlic cloves.

Step 2

Dry off the eggplant and cut it into chunks. When you start hearing the garlic sizzle a little and can smell it, drop in your eggplant and stir to coat it all with oil. Turn up the heat a little bit to mediumhigh, add the thyme, and stir. When the eggplant starts to turn translucent and soften, add the liquid and let it come to a boil, then turn it back down to medium-low. Let it bubble for a bit and cover it, leaving a crack for steam to escape. Stir once in a while, so the bottom doesn’t scorch.

Step 3

While the eggplant is softening, bring a large pot of water to boil, salt it, and cook the pasta to al dente. Check on the eggplant while the pasta cooks. The liquid should be mostly absorbed or reduced after about 20 minutes. Once the eggplant looks mashable, mash it up with a spoon and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. It should be silky-smooth and garlicky and humming with oil.

Step 4

Drain the pasta and toss with the eggplant purée. Stir in the tomatoes, basil, and pepper and gild the lily with some more olive oil and a handful of cheese before serving.

Serves 4 as a main course, 6 as a starter — Recipe adapted from Food52 Genius Recipes: 100 Recipes That Will Change the Way You Cook (Ten Speed Press 2015)

Barramundi a la Vinaigrette

One of the most pleasurable evenings I ever spent in Australia was cooking dinner in the kitchen of food entrepreneur Melissa Wong and her husband, Robert. A simple vinaigrette, whipped up in minutes and serving as a salad dressing, a marinade, and a sauce, is the unifying factor in this dish. If you can’t find barramundi—a popular fish down under—halibut, cod, or another mild white fish is equally delicious. The quick-pickled red onions are a great condiment for this and many other dishes.

Ingredients

For the pickled onions:

  • 1 medium red onion
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon sugar 
  • 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

For the vinaigrette:

  • Juice and zest of a lemon
  • 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
  • 1 teaspoon honey
  • Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper 
  • 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons minced fresh herbs, such as dill, flat-leaf parsley, and oregano

For the main dish:

  • 4 barramundi fillets, each 6 to 8 ounces
  • 4 loosely packed cups of baby arugula, spinach, or mixed greens 
  • 12 cherry tomatoes, halved
  • 2 Persian cucumbers, diced
  • 1 lemon, quartered

Directions

Step 1

Make the pickled onions: Thinly slice the red onion into rings and place them in a pint canning jar. Bring the water and apple cider vinegar to a boil over medium-high heat. Stir in the sugar and salt and pour the liquid over the onions. Let cool to room temperature before serving. 

Step 2

Make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, combine the lemon zest and juice, vinegar, honey, and 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Whisk until the salt and honey dissolve. Slowly add the olive oil, continuously whisking until the vinaigrette emulsifies. Stir in the minced herbs. Taste the vinaigrette, adding more vinegar or salt and pepper as desired. Pour 2/3 of the vinaigrette into a separate container and set aside.

Step 3

Place the fish fillets on a rimmed sheet pan and lightly brush both sides with the 1/3 of the vinaigrette from the mixing bowl. Season lightly with salt and pepper. 

Step 4

Toss the greens, cherry tomatoes, and cucumbers with 2 to 3 tablespoons of the reserved vinaigrette to lightly coat and divide among 4 plates. Top with equal amounts of the pickled onions. 

Step 5

Light a grill or preheat a well-oiled stovetop grill pan to medium-high. Arrange the fillets, skin side down, on a well-oiled grill grate or in the preheated pan. Cook until the edges begin to turn opaque, 2 to 3 minutes for thin fillets and 4 to 5 minutes for thicker fillets. Carefully turn and cook the other side until the fish is cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes more, taking care not to overcook them. Arrange a fillet on each of the prepared plates. Drizzle with the reserved vinaigrette and garnish each plate with a lemon quarter. 

Yields 4 servings.

Squash with Chili, Yogurt, and Cilantro Sauce

Butternut squash is one of the delights of colder weather. This recipe, with its tangy, herbaceous flavors and beautiful colors, will become a “keeper.” And maybe a holiday tradition.

Ingredients

  • 1 large butternut squash (about 3 pounds)
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 ounces cilantro leaves and stems, plus extra leaves for garnish
  • 1 small clove garlic, peeled and crushed
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
  • 1 cup Greek-style yogurt
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons sriracha, or your favorite hot sauce
  • Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Step 1

Heat the oven to 425ºF.

Step 2

Wash the squash skin well, cut the squash in half lengthwise, remove and discard the seeds, and then cut into wedges 3/4-inch wide and about 2 3/4-inches long, leaving the skin on. Place in a large bowl with the cinnamon, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and a good grind of pepper. Mix well so that the squash is evenly coated.

Step 3

Place the squash, skin side down if possible, on 2 rimmed baking sheets and roast for 35 to 40 minutes, until soft and starting to color on top. (If they topple over and don’t stay skin side down, don’t worry.) Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

Step 4

To make the herb paste, place the cilantro, garlic, the remaining 4 tablespoons of oil, and a generous pinch of salt in the bowl of a small food processor, blitz to form a ne paste, and set aside. (If you don’t have a small food processor, a mortar and pestle will work, or consider doubling the amounts to make in a large food processor and save any extra sauce for other uses.)

Step 5

Reduce the oven temperature to 350ºF. Spread the pumpkin seeds on a baking sheet and roast in the oven for 6 to 8 minutes. The outer skin will pop open and the seeds will become light and crispy. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

Step 6

When you are ready to serve, swirl together the yogurt and sriracha sauce. (Yogurt’s thickness varies, so adjust the consistency to your liking with a splash of olive oil or water.) Lay the squash wedges on a platter and dollop or drizzle the spicy yogurt sauce and then the herb paste over the top (you can also swirl the yogurt sauce and herb paste together, if you like). Scatter the pumpkin seeds on top, followed by the extra cilantro leaves, and serve.

Serves 4 — Recipe from Plenty More: Vibrant Vegetable Cooking from London’s Ottolenghi by Ottam Ottolenghi (Ten Speed Press 2014)

Calabrian Pumpkin Soup

Simple but sublime is the pumpkin soup my Merry Band of Tasters and I were served when visiting the Librandi family, one of Calabria’s outstanding olive oil producers. “Mama” Librandi shared the recipe with me.

Ingredients

  • 1 3-pound pumpkin or butternut squash, peeled, with seeds and membranes removed 
  • 2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled
  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
  • 2 tablespoons water 
  • Sea salt
  • Croutons for garnish (see the “Healthy Ingredient Spotlight” below) 

Directions

Step 1

Using a sturdy knife, cut the pumpkin or butternut squash into roughly 1.5” cubes. Do the same with the potatoes.

Step 2

In a medium saucepan, combine the pumpkin, potatoes, the 3 tablespoons of olive oil, and the water. Cover and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until tender—50 to 60 minutes.

Step 3

Transfer to a blender jar and purée until smooth (don’t fill the blender more than half full—work in batches if necessary). Salt to taste.

Step 4

Divide the soup between warmed soup bowls. Drizzle generously with additional olive oil, and garnish with croutons. 

Yields 6 appetizer or 4 main course servings